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Old 09-26-2007, 12:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
Jimbo
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Default Preventing Flooding?

I came across this on the net. Either one would seem to work, but I have never had this problem in the first place. Is it luck?

Rotary Engine Flooding Prevention


Any trip that is too short for the engine to reach normal operating temperature (needle in middle of temperature gauge indicates normal temperature) should follow these steps to prevent flooding of the engine.

With the engine already running,
Raise the engine speed to 3000 RPM for 10 seconds
Return to idle
Turn off engine

The above are instructions to prevent flooding as described in your Mazda Owner’s Manual. We have been using a slightly different method that does not require holding engine speed at 3000RPM for an extended period of time. Here are the instructions:

With engine already running,
Raise the engine speed to 3000RPM
Holding the engine speed at 3000RPM, turn the ignition key to the “off” position,
While simultaneously depressing the gas pedal all the way down.
After the engine has completely wound down, release the gas pedal.
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I usually have to hold the gas or mine will flood, then it's a PITA to get it running. It's inherent with rotaries. If it hasn't happened to you, I'd say you're just lucky
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Old 09-28-2007, 04:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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we must be lucky then... ehe... we always start ours like any other EFI car... just hold the clutch down and twist the key...

We still try to avoid shutting it down cold... but a few times we've had to... but the only time we 'flooded' it was when we rebuilt the intake, and sprayed too much non flammable cleaner into the housings that it fouled the plugs...

Also we've set our car up a tad richer than stock, and still no "legitimate" flooding problems...
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I do the same thing as Rick, stuck in a parking lot while your GF bitches at you is enough to make sure it doesn't happen again
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Old 10-04-2007, 03:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It probably works, but the author suggests his method is better because he avoids "holding the engine speed at 3000 rpm for an extended period of time". At least on an FD, turning off the ignition will instantly stop the OMP, which seems like it would do more harm than holding the engine at only 3k and for only 10 seconds.
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm sure I jinxed myself then

I guess I am lucky, I drive, turn it off, get back in and off I go. Maybe I'm missing the subtlties of the the Rotary Engine love affair
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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flooding has been a problem on the 8 since day one. I have never flooded mine...knock on wood...but on the times that it is not quite up to temp, I just give it a quick rev, to at least 3K, and then shut it off. it seems to work.

some 8 owners, do as Jimbo does, drive it, shut it off either way, and have no trouble, others, not so much.
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm not as lucky, if I get lazy I pay for it.
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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my wife still does not understand, why the car has to sit and run for about 10 minutes in the garage, after I work on it, wash it, need to move it...I have had it almost 4 years now. I don't take chances with it, especially being out of warranty. Mazda likes to replace flooded plugs, rather than make them usable again, and they want about $150 just for the plugs.
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Old 10-22-2007, 07:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L8APEX View Post
.....and they want about $150 just for the plugs.
Wow. What are the prices at AUTOZONE for the plugs?
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Old 10-22-2007, 07:58 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Signal 2 View Post
Wow. What are the prices at AUTOZONE for the plugs?
not sure, the Autozone, Advanced Autoparts, and Pep Boys near me don't' carry them. I buy mine from Sparkplugs.com, and a set of four runs about $80. And they last about 15-20K miles.
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Old 10-23-2007, 02:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L8APEX View Post
not sure, the Autozone, Advanced Autoparts, and Pep Boys near me don't' carry them. I buy mine from Sparkplugs.com, and a set of four runs about $80. And they last about 15-20K miles.
I checked racingbeat.com for em... surprisingly, they're approx $150 for a full set, too.
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Old 10-23-2007, 07:54 AM   #13 (permalink)
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yep, RB is not the best place to get them, they don't' have the best prices on stuff. from what I have found, for the 8, the cheapest is sparkplugs.com. I just recently bought my second set from them. I am on my 5th set of plugs...at 70K miles.
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Old 10-23-2007, 09:53 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Ouch. I never knew plugs for the 8 were so expensive. My car goes through them quicker than most too, but they're only about $28 for a set of four NGKs...and I can get them most anywhere.
Just curious, what do you suspect drives the cost?
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Old 10-23-2007, 10:14 AM   #15 (permalink)
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what drives the cost...IMO, the same thing that makes anything unique expensive, supply and demand. They are only used on the 8, no other car uses these two plugs. as a result, if you make them, and you know people need them, and at the rate they use them, make them cost more, you make more $$. The second generation plugs do better than the originals. they got re-designed to help prevent flooding. and it has helped. they still don't last long.
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