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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 161
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I came across this on the net. Either one would seem to work, but I have never had this problem in the first place. Is it luck?
Rotary Engine Flooding Prevention Any trip that is too short for the engine to reach normal operating temperature (needle in middle of temperature gauge indicates normal temperature) should follow these steps to prevent flooding of the engine. With the engine already running, Raise the engine speed to 3000 RPM for 10 seconds Return to idle Turn off engine The above are instructions to prevent flooding as described in your Mazda Owner’s Manual. We have been using a slightly different method that does not require holding engine speed at 3000RPM for an extended period of time. Here are the instructions: With engine already running, Raise the engine speed to 3000RPM Holding the engine speed at 3000RPM, turn the ignition key to the “off” position, While simultaneously depressing the gas pedal all the way down. After the engine has completely wound down, release the gas pedal. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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we must be lucky then... ehe... we always start ours like any other EFI car... just hold the clutch down and twist the key...
We still try to avoid shutting it down cold... but a few times we've had to... but the only time we 'flooded' it was when we rebuilt the intake, and sprayed too much non flammable cleaner into the housings that it fouled the plugs... Also we've set our car up a tad richer than stock, and still no "legitimate" flooding problems...
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'87 Blue RX-7 Coupe - the race car '99 Green MX-5 Roadster - my daily '77 RX-3 SP - the project car |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Midwest
Posts: 34
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It probably works, but the author suggests his method is better because he avoids "holding the engine speed at 3000 rpm for an extended period of time". At least on an FD, turning off the ignition will instantly stop the OMP, which seems like it would do more harm than holding the engine at only 3k and for only 10 seconds.
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Mostly stock, 93 VR R1 |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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flooding has been a problem on the 8 since day one. I have never flooded mine...knock on wood...but on the times that it is not quite up to temp, I just give it a quick rev, to at least 3K, and then shut it off. it seems to work.
some 8 owners, do as Jimbo does, drive it, shut it off either way, and have no trouble, others, not so much.
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2004 Titanium Gray Touring 6MT 18x8 Rota Torque - TEIN Flex Coilovers - RacingBrake Slotted Rotors F&R - Mazdatrix Stainless Lines - RacingBeat Sways F&R, REVi Intake and RAM Air Duct - A/C and Oil Cooler Screens - MAZDASPEED Front Strut Brace, Shift Knob - MAZMART Water Pump - Team Moon Custom Catback Exhaust |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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my wife still does not understand, why the car has to sit and run for about 10 minutes in the garage, after I work on it, wash it, need to move it...I have had it almost 4 years now. I don't take chances with it, especially being out of warranty. Mazda likes to replace flooded plugs, rather than make them usable again, and they want about $150 just for the plugs.
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#14 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Midwest
Posts: 34
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Ouch. I never knew plugs for the 8 were so expensive. My car goes through them quicker than most too, but they're only about $28 for a set of four NGKs...and I can get them most anywhere.
Just curious, what do you suspect drives the cost?
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Mostly stock, 93 VR R1 |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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what drives the cost...IMO, the same thing that makes anything unique expensive, supply and demand. They are only used on the 8, no other car uses these two plugs. as a result, if you make them, and you know people need them, and at the rate they use them, make them cost more, you make more $$. The second generation plugs do better than the originals. they got re-designed to help prevent flooding. and it has helped. they still don't last long.
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